Solaia is Antinori’s answer to the same question Sassicaia asked: what happens if you plant Bordeaux varieties on great Tuscan ground and ignore the rulebook. The vineyard is a ten-hectare, south-west facing slope on the Tignanello estate in Chianti Classico, at 350 to 400 metres on stony alberese and galestro soils. The name means « the sunny one ».

First made in 1978, it is roughly 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Franc — the Sangiovese is what keeps it Tuscan rather than a Bordeaux imitation. Aged around eighteen months in French oak, and released only in years the estate judges worthy.

2010 was a cool, late, classically shaped Tuscan vintage — the kind that produces structure rather than flesh, and wines that reward the cellar. It is widely held to be one of the finest Solaias of its decade.

Blackcurrant and sweet spice over dried herbs and cedar; structured and firm on the palate, the tannins chalky, closing on the savoury note the Sangiovese brings. Drinking well now with air, and good for another fifteen years.

Supplied in original wooden case, six bottles.