Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg sits in the middle of Vosne-Romanée and is among the most quietly admired addresses in Burgundy. It came to international attention under Dr Georges Mugneret and has since been run by his daughters Marie-Andrée and Marie-Christine, who farm just under nine hectares with a precision that has become the domaine’s signature.

The holdings read like a survey of the Côte de Nuits at its best: Ruchottes-Chambertin, Échezeaux, Clos Vougeot and Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées, alongside village and regional wines made with no less care. Production is tiny, and the wines are allocated rather than sold.

La Colombière is a village-level lieu-dit in Vosne-Romanée, and it is the bottling in which the house style is easiest to read: red fruit and spice, a silken texture, tannins that are present but never assertive, and a finish out of proportion to the appellation on the label.

2021 was a small, cool, classically proportioned vintage in Burgundy — lower in alcohol and higher in aromatic lift than the warm years that preceded it. It suits this domaine particularly well.