Domaine Marc Colin et Fils is based at Saint-Aubin, in the hills behind Chassagne-Montrachet, and is one of the reference names for white Burgundy in the southern Côte de Beaune. The estate was built up by Marc Colin from the 1970s and is run today by his children, who have kept the house style intact: precise, restrained oak, and a clear preference for tension over weight.

“La Combe” is a Bourgogne blanc in name only. The parcel sits on limestone-rich slopes adjoining the domaine’s village holdings, and it is farmed and vinified with the same care as the wines above it in the hierarchy — whole-bunch pressing, fermentation and ageing in barrel with a modest proportion of new wood.

2015 was a warm, generous vintage in Burgundy, and the whites from it have flesh and immediate appeal. With close to a decade in bottle this one has moved on from primary fruit into the honeyed, nutty register that mature Chardonnay reaches when the acidity has held, which here it clearly has.

A white Burgundy already in its window, and one that shows what the domaine can do at the modest end of its range.