Denis Mortet founded his domaine in Gevrey-Chambertin in 1992, on his share of the family vines, and within a decade had made it one of the most talked-about addresses in the Côte de Nuits — ripe, deeply coloured, heavily oaked wines that divided opinion as sharply as they attracted it.

After his death in 2006, his son Arnaud Mortet took over at twenty-four. He has spent the years since moving the style away from extraction and new wood towards finesse: more whole bunches, less new oak, gentler infusion. The transformation is one of the most admired in modern Burgundy.

The domaine works around eleven hectares in and around Gevrey, farmed organically in practice, with meticulous vineyard work — the discipline Denis was known for, applied to a lighter touch in the cellar.

« Mes Cinq Terroirs » is the domaine’s signature village wine, assembled from five separate lieux-dits of Gevrey-Chambertin. Blending across sites rather than bottling each one is a deliberate choice: the whole is meant to say Gevrey more completely than any single parcel could.

2019 was hot and dry, with a small crop of concentrated fruit held together by unexpectedly good acidity — one of the finest recent vintages for Côte de Nuits reds.

Black cherry and violet over sweet spice and a note of undergrowth; deep and velvety on the palate, the tannins ripe but finely drawn, closing long and savoury. A village wine that outperforms most premiers crus.