Domaine Coche-Dury is among the most sought-after names in all of white Burgundy. Founded in the 1920s by Léon Coche at Meursault, it reached its legendary standing under Jean-François Coche-Dury, who joined his father in 1973 and set a benchmark for the region through obsessive vineyard work, severe yields and an unfashionable loyalty to traditional methods. His son Raphaël took over in 2010 and has refined rather than changed the style.

The domaine farms around ten hectares, and the wines are made in a way that has barely altered in fifty years: long, slow barrel fermentation, extended lees ageing, minimal handling, and a signature reductive, flinty character that has been imitated across Burgundy and rarely equalled.

This is the estate’s Bourgogne blanc — the entry point to a range that is otherwise almost impossible to buy. It comes from parcels on the edge of Meursault and receives the same treatment as the wines above it, which is why it has long been regarded as one of the most serious regional whites in Burgundy.

2022 was a warm, generous and remarkably healthy vintage that gave whites with ripe fruit and, in the hands of the better growers, the acidity to carry it.