Domaine Boigelot was founded in Meursault in 1914. Éric Boigelot has run it since 1990 and now works alongside his son Charles — a family estate on the rue des Forges rather than a name built for the auction market.

The domaine farms 8.5 hectares across four communes of the Côte de Beaune: Meursault, Volnay, Pommard and Monthélie. The soils are worked rather than treated, and the estate holds HVE level 3 environmental certification.

Vinification stays deliberately traditional — ageing in oak barrel, with a light hand on the new wood.

Monthélie is Volnay’s neighbour and, for a long time, its bargain: the same slope, a fold further west, higher and cooler. This is the domaine’s premier cru bottling from old vines, which is where the concentration comes from.

Red cherry and wild raspberry with a touch of undergrowth and spice; firm and fresh on the palate, tannins fine-grained, closing savoury. Volnay’s shape without Volnay’s price.