Château Mouton Rothschild has stood in Pauillac since Nathaniel de Rothschild bought the estate in 1853. Baron Philippe de Rothschild took charge in 1922, aged twenty, and changed Bordeaux twice over: he imposed château bottling in 1924, and spent fifty years campaigning for the estate’s reclassification.

He won in 1973 — the only change ever made to the 1855 classification, promoting Mouton from second to first growth. The motto changed with it: Premier je suis, second je fus, Mouton ne change.

Since 1945, every vintage has carried a label commissioned from a different artist.

The 2004 label is among the most talked-about of the series: a watercolour by HRH The Prince of Wales, now King Charles III, with the estate donating a share of proceeds to his charitable foundation.

The vintage itself is classical rather than blockbuster — a cool, generous year that produced balanced, mid-weight clarets. Two decades on, this is exactly where such wines become interesting: cassis and cedar box giving way to tobacco leaf and forest floor, tannins fully resolved, the close savoury.

In magnum, in original wooden case. The larger format ages more slowly — expect this to hold and improve well beyond the standard bottle.