Château Lafite Rothschild sits at the northern edge of Pauillac, and has been in Rothschild hands since Baron James de Rothschild bought it at auction in 1868. It was ranked first among the first growths in the 1855 classification — a precedence it has never entirely surrendered.

The style is the most restrained of the five: Cabernet Sauvignon on deep gravel, aged in the estate’s own cooperage, and built on perfume, tension and length rather than power. Lafite asks for patience more insistently than any of its peers.

2002 was a nervous year saved at the last moment: a difficult summer, then a dry, sunny September and October that ripened the Cabernet on the Left Bank. Lafite, which is Cabernet-led and picks late, was among the great successes of the vintage.

Cedar and graphite over blackcurrant and dried flowers; fine-boned and cool on the palate, the tannins elegant rather than imposing, the finish long and perfumed. Fully open now, and holding.

Supplied in original wooden case, six bottles.