Veuve Clicquot was founded in Reims in 1772. Its name and its character come from Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin, widowed at twenty-seven in 1805 and left in charge of the house at a time when a woman running a business was close to unthinkable.

She changed champagne twice. In 1816 she devised the riddling table, the method still used to clear a bottle of its sediment. In 1818 she made the first known blended rosé champagne.

The house style has stayed hers: Pinot Noir dominant, built on structure and body rather than delicacy.

La Grande Dame is the house’s prestige cuvée, created in 1972 for its bicentenary and named for Barbe-Nicole herself. It is drawn from a small group of historic grand cru plots she owned, and made only in outstanding years.

This is 92% Pinot Noir — the house style pushed as far as it goes. 2008 is one of the great modern Champagne vintages: a cool, late season that delivered exceptional acidity, and whose wines are still climbing.

Pear, toasted bread, confit citrus and smoke; a deep, layered palate with ripe but racy acids and a saline close. Rich and muscular in the house manner, with a cut and precision the vintage adds. 93 points, William Kelley, Wine Advocate.