Louis Roederer traces back to 1776 in Reims and took its present name in 1833. Seven generations later it remains family-owned and independent, farming around 240 hectares of its own vineyards — much of it now biodynamic, at a scale no one else in Champagne has attempted.

Cristal was created in 1876 for Tsar Alexander II, who wanted his champagne in clear glass with a flat bottom — no punt in which an assassin could conceal a device. The bottle has not changed since. It is drawn from a small group of grand cru parcels, all farmed biodynamically, and released only after long ageing on lees and a further rest after disgorgement.

2008 is one of the reference vintages of modern Champagne. A cool, late, unhurried season gave acidity levels the region rarely sees, and the wines have aged far more slowly than anyone predicted.

Lemon oil and white flowers over brioche and struck flint; taut and vibrant on the palate, acidity chiselled rather than sharp, with an immense saline length. Already remarkable, and still years from its peak — one of the great Cristals.