Louis Roederer traces back to 1776 in Reims and remains family-owned and independent seven generations later, farming around 240 hectares of its own vineyards — an advantage in land that no other grande marque possesses.

Cristal was created in 1876 for Tsar Alexander II, who wanted his champagne in clear glass with a flat bottom — no punt in which an assassin could conceal a device. The bottle has not changed since.

2002 was a golden vintage in Champagne: a warm, dry late summer after a difficult start, giving wines of ripeness and structure together. It is now firmly in the category of great mature champagne years, and bottles in good provenance are increasingly scarce.

At two decades and more, this has moved into its tertiary register: candied citrus and toasted hazelnut over honey and warm brioche; full and mellow on the palate, with real depth, yet still carrying a freshness that catches you out. The finish is very long. Drinking beautifully now.