Domaine Vincent Dancer works around six hectares from Chassagne-Montrachet, spread across Chassagne, Meursault, Pommard and the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune — a small estate with a following out of all proportion to its size.

The vines have been certified organic since 2012, farmed on the principle that the wine is already made by the time it reaches the cellar. Théo Dancer, Vincent’s son, joined in 2016 and took full charge in 2021; he is pushing yields lower still, towards 15 hl/ha.

In the cellar: indigenous yeasts, spontaneous malolactic, no bâtonnage, and bottling without fining or filtration. New oak is used sparingly, and increasingly replaced by older, larger-format barrels.

The Hautes-Côtes de Beaune sit above and behind the famous slope, higher and several degrees cooler. For most of the twentieth century that was a handicap; in a warming climate it has become an advantage, and growers of this calibre are now among the appellation’s best arguments.

Green apple and lemon over white blossom and crushed stone; taut and cool-toned on the palate, the acidity brisk, closing mineral. More tension than a Bourgogne Blanc, and it will hold longer.