Domaine Roc Breïa is the project of Théo Dancer, son of the Chassagne-Montrachet grower Vincent Dancer. He set it up in 2021 at Bray, north of Mâcon — territory well outside the classic Côte, chosen for its old vines and its price rather than its label.

The estate covers ten hectares, seven of Pinot Noir and three of Chardonnay, planted between the 1950s and the 1970s. The soils had been worked conventionally for decades, and Dancer’s first task has been to bring them back: regenerative farming, cover crops, no synthetic inputs, and a deliberately light hand.

The wines are bottled as Vin de France rather than under an appellation, which gives him freedom in how he works. Vinification takes place at Chassagne-Montrachet using indigenous yeasts, with no fining and no filtration, and ageing in used 500-litre barrels so that the wood shapes texture rather than flavour.

The Pinot Noir is bright, red-fruited and supple — a wine of energy rather than weight, and one of the more interesting things happening at this price in Burgundy today.