Maison Fang is an unusual presence in Burgundy: a young house founded by Ming Fang, bringing an outsider’s eye to a region that rarely admits one. It has established itself quickly among producers of serious wines, on the strength of meticulous vineyard work and a clear refusal to over-handle anything in the cellar.

The holdings sit in some of the finest addresses of the Côte de Beaune — Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet La Garenne, Pernand-Vergelesses and Meursault among them — and each parcel is farmed and vinified on its own terms, with respect for the site and for the environment as the stated first principle.

The Hautes-Côtes de Beaune lie in the hills behind the Côte, at higher altitude and on cooler, more exposed sites. The wines from here have gained considerably in quality as the climate has warmed, and they now offer some of the clearest freshness in white Burgundy — which is precisely what this bottling is built on.

2022 was a warm and generous vintage, and the altitude here works in its favour: fruit and minerality in balance, and a finish that stays smooth rather than heavy.