Domaine Méo-Camuzet traces back to Étienne Camuzet (1867–1946), mayor of Vosne-Romanée and the deputy who pushed through the amendment creating the Appellations d’Origine in 1919. He bought the Château du Clos de Vougeot in 1920, and sold it to the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin in 1944.

The estate passed to Jean Méo in 1959. Working in de Gaulle’s cabinet in Paris, he let the vines to tenant growers — among them Henri Jayer, who established here the temperature-controlled vinifications that put freshness and fruit ahead of extraction. The domaine took the name Méo-Camuzet in 1981; the first bottlings under it are from the 1983 vintage.

Jean-Nicolas Méo took over in 1989, aged twenty, having learned directly from Jayer and Christian Faurois before finding his own line. Since 2008 he farms every parcel himself.

Aux Murgers lies at the northern end of Nuits-Saint-Georges, hard against the Vosne-Romanée boundary — which is exactly how it tastes. More perfume and less of the appellation’s usual iron fist.

2013 was a late, cool and demanding vintage that produced classically proportioned wines for those who picked carefully. At a decade-plus, this is in its window: black fruit and liquorice giving way to forest floor, tannins resolved, the finish long and earthy. Drinking now and through the coming years.