Domaine Boigelot was founded in Meursault in 1914. Éric Boigelot has run it since 1990 and now works alongside his son Charles — a family estate on the rue des Forges rather than a name built for the auction market.

The domaine farms 8.5 hectares across four communes of the Côte de Beaune: Meursault, Volnay, Pommard and Monthélie. The soils are worked rather than treated, and the estate holds HVE level 3 environmental certification.

Vinification stays deliberately traditional — ageing in oak barrel, with a light hand on the new wood.

Les Santenots is one of Burgundy’s administrative curiosities: the land lies inside the commune of Meursault, but when planted to Pinot Noir it is sold as Volnay 1er Cru Santenots. Meursault soil, Volnay name — and a wine with rather more flesh than Volnay usually gives.

Black cherry and violet with a note of liquorice; silky on entry but firmly framed, tannins ripe, closing long on red fruit. The domaine’s most structured red, and the one to keep.