Veuve Clicquot was founded in Reims in 1772. Its name and its character come from Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin, widowed at twenty-seven in 1805 and left in charge of the house at a time when a woman running a business was close to unthinkable.

She changed champagne twice. In 1816 she devised the riddling table, the method still used to clear a bottle of its sediment — before her, champagne was cloudy. In 1818 she made the first known blended rosé champagne, adding red wine to the blend rather than tinting it.

The house style has stayed hers: Pinot Noir dominant, built on structure and body rather than delicacy. The yellow label, registered in 1877, has been its signature ever since.

The Vintage Rosé is declared only in years judged worthy, and carries no reserve wines. 2015 marks the 67th vintage of the Maison — a warm, dry, solar season that suits a Pinot-led house.

Deep rose in colour. The nose opens on orange blossom, yuzu and mandarin, which give the freshness, before turning to cherry, aniseed and Vienna bread. Plenty of effervescence on the palate, and real complexity behind it.