Théo Dancer is the son of Vincent Dancer, the Chassagne-Montrachet grower whose whites have a devoted following. He trained at the Lycée Viticole de Beaune, joined the family domaine full-time in 2021 and has largely taken the reins — while running his own label alongside it.

His own project deliberately looks outside Burgundy. Fruit is bought from growers in the Jura, Beaujolais, Provence, Savoie and Alsace, chosen for the way the vines are farmed rather than for the appellation on the label.

The cellar work is stripped back to almost nothing: native yeasts, no additives, no enzymes or added acid, natural malolactic, no fining and no filtration.

Botanica is Gamay from the Beaujolais, made by a Burgundian who treats it as seriously as Pinot Noir — which is precisely what has made the region interesting again over the last twenty years.

Crushed raspberry and violet over peony and a peppery lift; juicy and unforced on the palate, the tannins silky, the finish carrying the granite freshness of the hills it comes from. Serve it cool.