Théo Dancer is the son of Vincent Dancer, the Chassagne-Montrachet grower whose whites have a devoted following. He trained at the Lycée Viticole de Beaune, joined the family domaine full-time in 2021 and has largely taken the reins — while running his own label alongside it.

His own project deliberately looks outside Burgundy. Fruit is bought from growers in the Jura, Beaujolais, Provence, Savoie and Alsace, chosen for the way the vines are farmed rather than for the appellation on the label.

The cellar work is stripped back to almost nothing: native yeasts, no additives, no enzymes or added acid, natural malolactic, no fining and no filtration.

Aragon is Grenache from the south — the grape’s original name points back to Spain, where it came from before it ever reached France. Handled the way a Burgundian handles Pinot Noir, it gives something quite different from the southern norm: perfume and lift instead of weight and alcohol.

Red cherry and garrigue over dried thyme and warm stone; sappy and light-footed on the palate, the tannins soft, the finish fresh rather than heavy. The most surprising bottle in the range.