Théo Dancer is the son of Vincent Dancer, the Chassagne-Montrachet grower whose whites have a devoted following. He trained at the Lycée Viticole de Beaune, joined the family domaine full-time in 2021 and has largely taken the reins — while running his own label alongside it.

His own project deliberately looks outside Burgundy. Fruit is bought from growers in the Jura, Beaujolais, Provence, Savoie and Alsace, chosen for the way the vines are farmed rather than for the appellation on the label.

The cellar work is stripped back to almost nothing: native yeasts, no additives, no enzymes or added acid, natural malolactic, no fining and no filtration. The stated aim is transparency — wines that show where they come from rather than who made them.

The Aligoté is the one wine in the range that stays home: fruit from Meursault, made with the same hands-off method as the rest. Aligoté was Burgundy’s second grape for centuries before Chardonnay took the good sites; grown properly it gives a straight, bracing line no Chardonnay can.

Lemon and green apple over white flowers and chalk; bright and linear on the palate, the acidity crunchy, closing clean and saline. Drink it cold, and young.