Domaine Vincent Dancer works around six hectares from Chassagne-Montrachet, spread across Chassagne, Meursault, Pommard and the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune — a small estate with a following out of all proportion to its size.

The vines have been certified organic since 2012, farmed on the principle that the wine is already made by the time it reaches the cellar. Théo Dancer, Vincent’s son, joined in 2016 and took full charge in 2021; he is pushing yields lower still, towards 15 hl/ha.

In the cellar: indigenous yeasts, spontaneous malolactic, no bâtonnage, and bottling without fining or filtration. New oak is used sparingly, and increasingly replaced by older, larger-format barrels.

Morgeot is the largest and best known of the Chassagne premiers crus, on the Santenay side of the village where the marl runs deeper. It gives the broadest, most powerful whites of the commune — which makes it an interesting test of a domaine built on restraint.

The answer here is that the site’s breadth is kept in check rather than amplified: citrus peel and white peach over almond and warm stone; broad-shouldered on the palate yet chiselled through the middle, closing very long and mineral. The domaine’s most serious white, and one that wants a few years.