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Powerful, dense and tightly wound, the 2006 Dom Pérignon is fabulous today. To be sure, the 2006 is a broad, virile Champagne, but I find it compelling because of its phenolic depth and overall intensity. Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy adds that August was quite cold and wet and that ripening only happened at the very end of the growing season. Although numbers alone can never explain a wine, I find it interesting that the 2006 has more phenolics than the 2003. Readers must be patient, as the 2006 is easily the most reticent Dom Pérignon in 2002 and 2009. I am confident the 2006 will have its day, but it is not especially charming or easy to drink in its youth.
Two thousand-eighteen is a big year for Dom Pérignon, as Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy officially hands over the reins to his successor, Vincent Chaperone. During my annual visit, I tasted a wide range of wines with Geoffroy and Chaperone. The 2008 Dom Pérignon is very hot in the market right now, but I would be looking for opportunities to pick up the 2002 and 2004 for near and medium-term drinking. In several recent verticals, both wines have been positively stunning.
Drink 2026 – 2056
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (July 2018)