Dom Pérignon takes its name from Pierre Pérignon (1638–1715), the Benedictine cellarer of the Abbey of Hautvillers. He did not invent sparkling wine, whatever the legend says — what he did was arguably more useful: he perfected the art of blending across villages, and worked out how to press black grapes to make a clear white wine.

The champagne that carries his name is always a vintage wine. It is never made in a year the cellar judges unworthy, and never blended across harvests. Roughly equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, matured at length before release.

2006 was a warm, uneven season saved by a fine September — and it gave a rounder, more openly generous Dom Pérignon than the taut 2008 that followed. It is the vintage to open when you want pleasure rather than a debate.

Ripe stone fruit and honey over brioche and toasted hazelnut; generous and rounded on the palate, the mousse creamy, closing long and warm. Fully in its window.