Dom Pérignon takes its name from Pierre Pérignon (1638–1715), the Benedictine cellarer of the Abbey of Hautvillers. He did not invent sparkling wine, whatever the legend says — what he did was arguably more useful: he perfected the art of blending across villages, and worked out how to press black grapes to make a clear white wine.

The champagne that carries his name is always a vintage wine. It is never made in a year the cellar judges unworthy, and never blended across harvests. Roughly equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, matured at length before release.

2013 was a late, cool, patient year — the harvest ran into October, which in Champagne is almost unheard of now. The result is a classical, tightly drawn wine, closer in spirit to the 2008 than to the generous 2006.

Citrus zest and white blossom over almond and struck flint; precise and cool-toned on the palate, held by fine tension, closing long and chalky. A Dom Pérignon for people who like their champagne austere.